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height="152" /></div> <div class="text"> 下載投融界APP<br />隨時隨地獲取新鮮資訊 </div> <a href="http://www.uinh.net/tg/appdown.html" target="_blank" class="button">了解投融界APP</a> </div> </div> <div class="layout-content clearfloat"> <div class="vision-content"> <div class="vision-content-left"> <div class="vision-detail-title">2023，10大“新”美妝！</div> <div class="vision-detail-header"> <div class="source"> <a href="/news/column_974.html" target="_blank">青眼</a> ·<p>小朱</p></div> <div class="time">2023/12/25</div> <div class="vision-detail-share"> <a target="_blank" rel="nofollow" class="share_wb"></a> <a href="javascript:;" rel="nofollow" class="share_wx"> <div class="qrcode" id="qrcode"></div> <div class="tip"></div> </a> <a target="_blank" rel="nofollow" class="share_zone"></a> </div> </div> <div class="vision-detail-describ"> 對于不平凡的2023年，青眼通過梳理總結出十大新變化，既為2023年做一個總結，也以期為美妝行業提供思考啟發。 </div> <div class="con-press">本文來自于微信公眾號“青眼”（ID：qingyanwh），作者：小朱，投融界經授權發布。</div> <div class="vision-detail-content"> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">2023年即將劃上休止符，回首過去一年，美妝行業仍面臨重重壓力與考驗，與此同時，新面貌、新趨勢也層出不窮。</span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">作為疫情結束的第一年，人們期盼已久的行業大復蘇并沒有如約而至?！耙惶柖嘤谩边`法行為迎來嚴打，兒童化妝品、牙膏法規先后頒布，完整版安評更是實施在即，化妝品監管再次提升到新高度，企業被戴上新“緊箍咒”。大批工廠與品牌的破產與閉店，也證明行業仍在洗牌期。</span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">2023年，是國貨美妝“趕超”國際美妝的一年。國貨美妝龍頭珀萊雅雙11戰績超越霸榜已久的歐萊雅，歐萊雅、雅詩蘭黛、LVMH開啟投資中國企業閥門。種種跡象表明，國貨美妝與國際美妝巨頭的競爭格局已然發生了微妙的變化。</span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">與此同時，中國成分、定制化妝品、微生態護膚、ESG等成為行業熱詞，體現美妝企業對于原料研發、社會責任、護膚趨勢的最新判斷。</span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">對于不平凡的2023年，青眼通過梳理總結出十大新變化，既為2023年做一個總結，也以期為美妝行業提供思考啟發。</span> </p> <p style="text-align:center;"> <span style="font-size:16px;"><strong>新法規：完整版安評等多項法規實施在即</strong></span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">要說2023年，最受美妝行業人關注的法規，非完整版安評莫屬。</span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">根據國家藥監局發布的《化妝品安全評估技術導則（2021年版）》，企業需在2024年5月1日后提交完整版安全評估報告。然而，大量原料缺乏毒理學數據、成本高昂的毒理學實驗，以及安評人才的緊缺都成為企業實施完整版安評的“攔路虎”。</span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">對于2024年，有業內人士對青眼表示，隨著完整版安評的正式實施，明年企業開發新品將更加謹慎，小企業的推新工作甚至可能陷入“停滯”。</span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">與完整版安評息息相關的原料行業也迎來更加規范、科學的監管。近日，中檢院發布《化妝品新原料溝通交流工作機制（試行）》和公開征求《化妝品新原料界定及研究技術指導原則（征求意見稿）》意見的通知，為化妝品新原料出現的問題提供溝通管道。</span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">除此之外，今年3月，隨著《牙膏監督管理辦法》的正式發布，對于牙膏定義、牙膏原料、備案、功效評價等進行明確要求，標志著牙膏正式進入備案時代。</span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">從明年來看，完整版安全評估報告、射頻美容儀被納入第三類醫療器械等眾多新規都將于明年如約而至。</span> </p> <p style="text-align:center;"> <span style="font-size:16px;"><img alt="2023，10大“新”美妝！"src="https://trjoss1.trjcn.com/prod/static/attached/2023/1225/51-1703467664.png" alt="" /><br /> </span> </p> <p style="text-align:center;"> <span style="font-size:16px;"><strong>新監管：被叫停的“化妝品”</strong></span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">今年，對于化妝品的監管繼續延續趨嚴的勢頭，其中對于“一號多用”的嚴打對行業產生不小的震動。</span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">今年6月，國家藥監局化妝品監管司召開會議，部署開展化妝品“一號多用”違法行為專項檢查工作，正式打響今年以來嚴打“套證”第一槍。近期，國家藥品監督管理局化妝品智慧申報審評系統發出“提醒”，要求特殊化妝品取得注冊證后，注冊人應當在產品投放市場前，將上市銷售的產品標簽圖片上傳至信息服務平臺，意味著“套證”的最后一個漏洞將被堵住。</span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">除了套證化妝品，由于存在添加天仙子而導致的菌落超標問題，海藻面膜也在今年迎來大排查。在國家藥監局與廣東省藥監局通報的多個不合格化妝品通告中，海藻面膜產品均占半數以上，有行業觀點認為，“海藻面膜處于危險邊緣”。</span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">此外，微晶或微針類化妝品也面臨前所未有的合規困境。根據廣州市場監督管理局發布《普通化妝品備案問答（五十一期）》指出，“宣稱微晶或微針類產品，如使用水解海綿等微小的針狀原料或相應生產工藝技術，使用方法通過扎入皮膚發生效果或進行產品滲透，非施用于皮膚表面，該類產品則超出化妝品定義范疇”，這或意味著通過破皮發生效果的微針或微晶產品在界定上將被踢出化妝品范疇。</span> </p> <p style="text-align:center;"> <span style="font-size:16px;"><strong>新格局：珀萊雅成為本土新龍頭</strong></span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">今年業內的共同感受是行情冷淡，不過也有企業逆風而上。比如珀萊雅，先是今年前三季度的營收超越長期位居本土美妝龍頭的上海家化，首次上位“新王”，隨后又在雙11的天貓護膚品牌銷售額榜中奪得 TOP1寶座，預示著國貨美妝迎來了新的發展格局。</span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">除了國內美妝企業格局發生改變，在進口品端，時隔5年，2022年法國超越日本，再次成為中國化妝品第一進口國，同樣值得注意。</span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">事實上，2017年之前，法國一直穩坐我國進口化妝品第一國的寶座，但2017年后，隨著韓妝和日妝潮流的席卷，以及如RCEP等相關政策的落地，法國的地位被日韓反超。如今，中國對日韓的進口額都出現了不同程度下滑，加之核污水事件影響日妝，2022年法國仍保持了4%的增速，以364億元的成績穩坐第一。</span> </p> <p style="text-align:center;"> <span style="font-size:16px;"><strong>研發新版圖：1小時美妝研發圈來了</strong></span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">縱觀化妝品行業，國際品牌此前長期占據市場份額，與企業長期投入科研不無關系，同樣的，當前國貨美妝崛起風潮內驅力也離不開企業在研發上有更多突破。</span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">一方面，據青眼不完全統計，今年已有5家美妝企業官宣新增建設或正式啟用研發中心。如珀萊雅、福瑞達、逸仙電商等國內頭部美妝企業均在上海啟用全新研發中心， LVMH、皮爾法伯集團等國際美妝集團同樣今年在上海成立新的研發中心，進一步加碼針對中國消費者需求的研究。（詳見青眼文章《1小時全球美妝研發圈，成了！》）</span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">此外，一部分企業還投資了工廠，以期在生產與研發上掌握更多主動權。如毛戈平正式在杭州建設美妝研發工廠；逸仙電商與科絲美詩共同打造的首座工廠正式開業，年產值將超15億元。</span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">另一方面，國貨美妝也在加強尖端人才引進。例如，今年3月，完美日記母公司逸仙電商官宣新的首席科學官承靜。據悉，在加入逸仙電商前，承靜曾擔任雅詩蘭黛集團亞太研發中心研發副總裁一職。又如，今年7月以來，歐詩漫則接連公開了兩位曾在寶潔工作多年的研發負責人，分別是擔任歐詩漫首席研發創新官的朱龍和研發創新中心產品技術開發部高級總監關喆。</span> </p> <p style="text-align:center;"> <span style="font-size:16px;"><strong>新成分：中國成分、新原料“破圈”</strong></span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">成分毫無疑問是研發最直接、具象的成果之一，隨著國貨美妝企業掀起“科研發燒潮”，中國成分也被推上了風口。2023年，可謂中國成分集體爆發的一年。</span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">青眼梳理發現，今年以來，珀萊雅、貝泰妮、逸仙電商、丸美、水羊股份等多個企業的首款化妝品新原料完成備案，其中貝泰妮更是在今年完成三款新原料的備案。</span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">頭部企業在原料上的發力，一方面是由于經過在渠道、營銷等方面的競爭后，美妝行業已然邁入研發時代，而自研原料更是研發的核心與方向。此外，國貨美妝普遍面臨難以進軍高端市場的現實，而更多具有自主核心技術的原料出現，在助于企業打造技術護城河的同時，也能夠讓企業有更多的獨特標識與議價空間。</span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">總體來看，在新原料備案方面，截至發稿前，今年共有66款新原料完成備案，較去年42款增長57%，本土企業備案原料占據了大半壁江山。其中以一批具有中國特色的植物原料為今年新原料備案的重要亮點，包括水龍提取物、平臥菊三七、天山雪蓮細胞培養物等等。</span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">不僅如此，中國成分進入國際巨頭視野。近期，一則歐萊雅小蜜罐第二代宣稱添加重組膠原蛋白的消息，在行業引發熱議。資生堂、LVMH、歐萊雅三大美妝巨頭入局重組膠原蛋白賽道，預示“中國成分”再次迎來高光時刻。</span> </p> <p style="text-align:center;"> <span style="font-size:16px;"><strong>新投資：中國美妝品牌成香餑餑</strong></span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">本土企業的創新表現開始吸引到國際美妝巨頭的目光?；仡?023年，雅詩蘭黛、LVMH旗下投資部門/基金紛紛在中國美妝界創下了多起“首投”，給予本土企業立足中國，走向國際的信心。</span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">就在今年，雅詩蘭黛的中國投資“發動機”正式啟動。3個月內，雅詩蘭黛集團早期投資和孵化部門New Incubation Ventures（下稱“NIV”）先是首投中國美妝品牌CODEMINT紈素之膚，隨后又在近日首投中國香氛品牌melt season，再次押注中國美妝品牌。</span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">與雅詩蘭黛類似，LVMH集團旗下消費投資基金路威凱騰今年同樣對于中國美妝品牌屢拋橄欖枝。今年9月，路威凱騰首投重組膠原蛋白企業創健醫療，融資金額超2億元，隨后又在近日投資兒童護膚品牌海龜爸爸。</span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">總體來看，隨著雅詩蘭黛、LVMH基金今年的輪番下注，目前歐萊雅、資生堂、雅詩蘭黛、LVMH四大美妝集團均已開啟對于中國美妝品牌的投資“閥門”，涉及品牌從原料端到香水、護膚、彩妝等多個領域。</span> </p> <p style="text-align:center;"> <span style="font-size:16px;"><strong>功效升級：細胞抗衰、醫美術后修護大熱</strong></span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">從市場來看，功效護膚無疑仍然是今年最卷的賽道，尤其是品牌在抗衰賽道“打得不可開交”。而青眼觀察發現，圍繞抗衰，各大頭部開啟了細胞基因層面的新比拼。</span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">譬如，今年，雅詩蘭黛發布全新逆齡科技“色提因”，為細胞基因抗衰點燃了一把火。據悉，衰老的本質其實就是細胞的衰老，色提因是細胞之中調節組蛋白去乙?；鞍踪|家族，參與調控細胞內的基因表達、能量代謝和DNA修復等機制，對于延長細胞活躍壽命起到至關重要作用。</span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">最近，蘭蔻則在推出的黑金面霜中首次搭載全新專研生物技術成分黑金肌源因子“Blackbiosis”，號稱能夠從源頭激活在代謝、DNA修復等諸多生理過程中發揮關鍵作用的輔酶NAD+。</span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">此外，青眼還注意到，消費者不僅僅期待從醫美手段提升肌膚狀態，即便是在術后需要特別呵護的恢復期，也希望能夠使用既有舒緩效果，還能延續醫美帶來抗衰、美白等功效的產品。</span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">其中，理膚泉、修麗可、倩碧等國際品牌，紛紛加注醫美術前與術后修護場景。國內企業方面，福瑞達近期發布了在醫美領域探索的第一個品牌珂謐KeyC，以重組膠原蛋白為核心，致力于打造專注“圍術期”精細化護理的醫美品牌。今年上市的全新皮膚學級品牌“美籟”同樣也押注醫美術前術后修護的賽道。</span> </p> <p style="text-align:center;"> <span style="font-size:16px;"><strong>新彩妝：彩妝卷“功效”</strong></span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">當下，彩妝市場競爭愈發激烈，特別是國產彩妝品牌面臨著低價競爭，難以實現突破性發展的局面。由此，功效型彩妝成為今年彩妝市場較為明顯的趨勢，通過在彩妝上疊加不同的功效與核心技術，有助于提高產品辨識度與溢價。</span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">例如，今年9月，逸仙電商旗下品牌完美日記推出“仿生膜”精華口紅，該新品首創唇部仿生膜Biolip？，保證口紅基礎彩妝功效的同時，帶來雙重修護滋養效果，并添加“黑科技”石榴勝肽復合物，幫助維持肌膚彈性。</span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">此外，國產品牌BOB、烙色等均推出具有護膚功效的睫毛膏、粉底霜等產品。</span> </p> <p style="text-align:center;"> <span style="font-size:16px;"><strong>新洗護：頭皮護理新變革</strong></span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">在洗護方面，今年洗護新原料順利開閘，雙-聚香茅醇琥珀酸酯、雙-聚香茅醇壬二酸酯和聚硅氧烷季銨鹽-16/環氧丙氧基聚二甲基硅氧烷交聯聚合物三款洗護類原料完成備案進入監測期，前兩個原料的備案人為P2 科技股份公司，后者的備案人為陶氏（張家港）投資有限公司。</span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">另一個較大的變化是，頭皮護理越來越成為洗護發市場主流。一個典型例子是海飛絲從過往的“去屑專家”更換新定位為“頭皮護理專家”。同時，滋源作為頭皮護理領跑者，今年更著重強調頭皮微生態與發絲健康的密切關系，傳達全新的品牌主張——“科學養頭皮，自有蓬勃力”。</span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">據公開資料顯示，2023年第2季度頭皮洗護產品的備案總數為720，同比第一季度增長33.09%，環比增長147.42%。與此同時，各類不同形態的頭皮護理產品層出不窮，“舒緩”、“防脫”功效受到消費者歡迎，頭皮護理的護膚化、功效化趨勢越發明顯，一些頭皮護理品牌開始在原料端強調中國成分的概念。</span> </p> <p style="text-align:center;"> <span style="font-size:16px;"><strong>新趨勢：微生態護膚、定制化妝品火了</strong></span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">走過一年，2023年涌現了不少新趨勢，而微生態護膚可謂最為熱門的趨勢之一。</span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">青眼注意到，開年以來，歐萊雅、資生堂、聯合利華等國際美妝巨頭紛紛通過收購、投資新品牌等方式，加碼微生態護膚賽道。與此同時，國內微生態護膚市場也愈發熱鬧，諾斯貝爾、福瑞達、上美股份等都在微生態護膚領域有所動作或建樹。</span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">從國內市場來看，今年多個微生態護膚相關團標出爐，以及諾斯貝爾的高調入局，國貨美妝的微生態護膚布局在今年迎來一波小高潮。</span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">此外，定制化妝品在今年也迎來重大突破，成為各大企業紛紛布局的風口。伴隨著今年4月，上海市藥監局為位于上海浦東新區的一家修麗可門店頒發全國首張“現場個性化服務”化妝品生產許可證，定制化妝品服務終于在市場端落地了，定制化妝品閘門打開。</span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">根據藥監局官網顯示，目前歐萊雅、雅詩蘭黛、LVMH三大國際美妝集團均已取得中國定制化妝品“牌照”。資生堂也不甘落后，近日，IPSA茵芙莎中國首家“ULX高定專研中心”的個性化定制服務正式啟幕，這也是資生堂中國首個個性化定制服務項目。</span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">除了國際品牌，波蒂詩（北京）皮膚健康管理有限公司、北京茉顏定制生物科技有限公司等多家國內企業也先后獲批開展化妝品個性化服務試點工作，并已成功落地，推向市場。</span> </p> <p> <span style="font-size:16px;">唯一的不變，就是不停地改變。2023年，無疑是充滿變化的一年，也將是對于未來產生深遠影響的一年，企業需通過深入了解變化背后的風向，深刻把握當下行業的發展方向，才能真正做到無懼變化，穩穩立足于市場。</span> </p> </div> <div class="vision-detail-copyright"> <span>版權聲明 <span>本文經授權發布，不代表投融界立場。如若轉載請聯系原作者 </div> <div class="vision-detail-bottom"> <div class="vision-detail-tags"> <span>2023</span> <span>美妝</span> <span>化妝</span> </div> <div class="vision-detail-share"> <a target="_blank" rel="nofollow" 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